New map - some rain

Re-Routing... updated map.  I needed to cut this trip short by about 5 days, so... I've re-routed my trip by hopping on Amtrak from St. Paul, MN to Columbus (Madison) WI.

Click Here for New Map

 Thu. 6/24 - To Montevideo MN

A fitting farewell to South Dakota 

72 miles with some headwinds.  It turns out to be good for SD's wind turbines... SD is the country's 3rd windiest state behind Iowa and Wyoming.

Montevideo itself is a split-level town.  The downtown is near the train tracks and river (Chippewa).  My hotel, the Walmart etc. are up a big hill on a plateau about 2 miles from downtown, so dinner was at the Subway adjacent to my hotel.   Too lazy / tired to climb back up the hill a second time after dinner.

Fri. 6/25 - Willmar

Originally my plan was to ride 70 miles to Hutchinson, but... headwinds and the fact my train doesn't leave 'til Sunday means I could add another day and break the ride up into 2 rides: 
40 mile (Montevideo to Willmar) and 50 mile (Willmar to Hutchinson).  

Amtrak cut back their long haul train service from 7 to 3 days/week during the  pandemic, but plans to restore 7 day service as of July 1.  

The ride to Willmar goes through the little town of Clara, which has a good old-time bakery.

Breakfast at the R&R bakery in Clara, MN

Sat. 6/26 - Hutchinson :  Minnesota Nice!

Willmar to Hutchinson is a 50 mile ride with light headwinds.  I made it to within 10 miles of Hutchinson before the rain started... so I found shelter in a gazebo in someone's front yard and called the only taxi company in Hutchinson.   The owner said it would cost between $15 and $20.  He was there within 20 minutes.   When he dropped me off at my hotel, he refused to take any money for the ride.  My hotel is on the east side of town.  Not much in the way of restaurants on this side of town, and the rain continued.  I called the taxi to take me across town to dinner, and this time he took the money.

Tomorrow, the game plan is to ride to Minnetonka, on the east side of Minneapolis, and hop on public transit to get to St. Paul, where my train departs on Monday morning.  The weather forecast is a little iffy... so I may be riding with Hutchinson's taxi van again tomorrow.

Winds: Sometimes Good and sometimes not

Wed.  6/16 Gravel ... Thanks, Google!!!

Headed for Miles City.  A 50 mile ride.  I get about 20 miles into it, and I'm following Google Map's routing on a nice quiet paved country road.  About 10 more miles down the road and it turns to gravel.  Another 3 miles and it keeps getting rougher.  I flagged down the only vehicle (SUV) that came down the road. It was mail delivery.   In rural areas USPS contracts delivery to individuals who deliver mail in their own cars to remote homes.   They informed me that the road continues like that for another 30 miles, and just keeps getting worse.   I did a u-turn and my nice tailwinds became headwinds.   My 50 mile ride ended up being a 70 mile ride, with 13 miles of headwinds and about 15 miles on the shoulder of I-94.

At the western edge of Miles City was the municipal swimming "pool" which was actually a small lake that had been made by diverting water from the Yellowstone River.  It was really nice, a smaller version of the Strandbad Mythenquai on the Obersee (lake) which we enjoyed in Zurich in 2018.   

Thu. 6/17 to Baker MT.

A long day(80 miles , 2254 ft vertical), but with brisk tailwinds.  Pretty small town with limited dining choices, but was able to have an ok steak dinner (a little tough) and a good night's sleep.

Fri. 6/18 to Hettinger ND.

Nothing open for breakfast in Baker... so it's gas station snack for breakfast and head down the road 33 miles to the first restaurant that was open.   Baker to Hettinger is 86 miles, the longest ride so far on this trip. But winds were favorable.   Hettinger has a population of about 1300, and limited choices for dining. 

Sat 6/19 to Watauga SD

The town is in the Standing Rock Indian reservation, 50 miles East of Hettinger, but with the SE headwinds, it felt more like 70.  There's no town to speak of.  The only restaurant closes @ 2PM.  The Dakota Countryside Inn is a 10 room hotel which I had to talk my way into getting the owner to accept the reservation because he said they were having a "family reunion" of his wife's family that weekend.  The owners are an elderly couple.  The wife is recovering from a recent stroke, and the reunion consisted of her brother, Jim, from Montana who was visiting.  Other than Jim and me, there was no one else there.   I think Jim was glad I was there because he seemed to need someone to talk with.    Dinner and breakfast was cereal, milk, and bread with Nutella.  

They do love their guns.

Sun. 6/20 to Mobridge, SD

The next town east of Watauga that alleged to have food was McLaughlin, but...

I'll tell you what's wrong with it my lad... It's Dead!

There was a gas station along rt 12 in McLaughlin, however, that had OK corn dogs... which kept me going 'til Mobridge.

Lots of hay fields, and lots of cattle grazing.  The cattle liked to do this half-hearted stampede when I rode by.    

Not much else interesting happening along this road to keep them amused.  

Mobridge is named after the bridge over the Missouri River on US 12 that leads into town.

One of the first attractions in town is the Klein museum, which I, of course, had to spend some time trapesing around in. It's an interesting collection of stuff from the early to mid-20th century.

Dinner in Mobridge was problematic.  I had intended to try the Chinese restaurant that Google Maps said was open until 9PM.   It was "closed until further notice".   I don't think it's coming back... so, again, I updated Google Maps to so indicate.   I've done this so far for about 6 different businesses.

The only places open were Burger King and Subway.   I ended up with a Healthy Choice Korean bowl.  It was sort of like bibimbap.  Not terrible.  Supplemented with junk food (peanut butter rice krispie bars and milk), you can make a meal out of it.   

Mon. 6/21 to Gettysburg, SD

This is a sad little town.   US 212 comprises the main street in the town and was closed from the West to East end of town.   Major construction.   This seems to be killing the businesses that depend on car traffic along US 212.  The only eatery open after 2PM is a fast-food stand called "Quiett's Corner" which is a fast food joint.  Better than nothin'...but just barely.   The gas station on the East end of town had an OK mini-mart and some food service in the morning...so that got me back on the road.

Tue. 6/22 to Redfield, SD

81 miles with headwinds.  Jeesh! 
This town has about 2,000 people, so there were a few surviving places to eat.  I lucked out because Tuesday Night was ribs night for dinner.  It was surprisingly good, and really really big.   

Wed. 6/23 to Watertown, SD

The high temperature today was 104 in Redfield, and 96 in Watertown, which is a little higher in elevation. Headwinds again...so a 73 mile ride was just not possible.  I arranged for a taxi from Watertown (a city of about 25000 people) to pick me up in Clark, about 33 miles west of Watertown.  

Breakfast in Redfield was significant.   After my eggs, hashbrowns and toast at Leos,which opened at 5:30, early enough to get out of town before it got hot, I had this monster fresh out of the oven.

The Monster Caramel Bun

I was going to have a donut at The Bread Box bakery across the street, but they are also closed, so I fixed their Google Maps listing before taking off for Clark.

Stopped in the local bike shop to get my tires pumped up  (hadn't done that since Missoula), then grabbed a lunch of wings and fresh-cut fries at Harry's.   It was so big that I'm skipping dinner tonight.

These Klein guys sure get around

Heat Wave

Mon.  6/14:
Early (5:30) breakfast, then a 50 mile ride to Custer.  Arrived before noon, and it was already in the high 90's.  The day topped out at 104°.  Staying at the Junction City Saloon and Hotel, the only hotel and restaurant in town, but unfortunately, the restaurant is closed on Monday.  Lunch was a sad microwaved chicken burrito from the gas station / convenience store adjacent to the Saloon.  Custer is a 1 stop-sign town.

Denny, the Saloon/Hotel owner was very helpful.  He left me a large chef salad in the room's fridge for dinner.  I had discussed my Tuesday problem (it's 112° now in Forsyth, the next town east) and asked him if he knew anyone with a pick-up truck that would be interested in taking me to Forsyth.  He connected me with Doug,  a retired guy who was happy to drive me in return for $ for gas and time .  

Tuesday 6/15 - Forsyth

Breakfast consisted of Cereal, left over from Harlowton, which also had nothing open for breakfast, and Milk from the gas station.
Doug picked me up promptly @ 10 and we drove the 56 miles to Custer with no A/C.  By the time we got here it was already in the upper 90's.  I feel bad for Doug.  It must have been really hot by the time he got back. 

I checked into the Montana Inn, which had a 3.1/5 rating on Expedia.  This was hands down the worst motel I've ever seen... and I've seen a lot of seedy motels in my travels.  Bad smells everywhere, worn out and dirty carpet.  The room's lights didn't work, shower dripped, bathroom floor was wet.  Carpet was filthy, and it smelled bad.  Other than that everything was peachy!

I hightailed it out of there and checked into the Sundowner, which was twice the price, and worth every penny.

I'm writing this from the Custer / Rosebud library, which serves 2 counties and is a bright, modern library with good computers which allows me to remote into my computer at home and type on a full-size keyboard.

Accuweather says it's only going up to 86 tomorrow, and the winds are favorable (16MPH from NW).  Happy trails!

Big Sky, few people

Fri 6/11  to White Sulphur Springs (WSS)

A long day riding from Helena to White Sulphur Springs.   78 miles with 2850 ft of climbing.  The ride was pleasant, except for the headwinds which started around 10AM and lasted until I turned north after lunch.

Sat. 6/12  to Harlowton

It was pretty cold early Sat. morning, so I slept in, and didn't hit the road until around 11:30.   By then it was warm enough for shorts, but it still never got above 68 the whole day.  The 58 miles was easy... downhill mostly with nice tail winds.   

6/13 to Billings:

Weather forecast is turning hot, especially Mon.  (100+) and Tuesday (108) .   My Sunday ride was planned for Billings, 92 miles, but the winds were now going to come from the East... can't do that distance in 1 day with head winds, so I arranged for a pick-up at the half-way point (Lavina). 

The nice thing about where I'm staying is that there's a diner right next to my hotel which opens
@ 5:30 AM so I can get out early and get to Custer (56 miles, mostly flat) before noon.   The bad news about Custer is that the Junction Saloon, the only bar/restaurant in town, is closed on Mon and Tue, so it will be gas station food for dinner and breakfast tomorrow and Tuesday.   

 

Rain and snow... Let's Go!

Wed. 6/9 

After a morning of bicycle maintenance, haircut and other cleanup items, 

rode over to my cousin Bert's house and spent the rest of the day with Bert, his mom, Florence, and his niece (who he's raising), Isabella... catching up on family history and such.  Carol, Bert's wife, came back from work before dinner, and I cooked a chicken tajine.

Thu. 6/10 
It was raining on and off on Wed. night.  By Thurs morning it was really coming down.  To keep on schedule, I decided to rent a car and drive to Helena... but Missoula has no cars available, so I rented a U-Haul 10' truck.  It rained constantly, and by the time I got to Macdonald pass (6319'), it was snowing hard, but not sticking.

Macdonald pass on US 12

Spokane to Missoula - dodging rain

 Sat. 6/5 - Wet ride to Sandpoint

Starting my day with part of a healthy breakfast (the unhealthy part)

After breakfast, rode through about 30 miles Northeast past Rathdrum Idaho, and the rain started.   Took shelter under a roof in front of a garage, and it just kept coming for almost an hour.  After it let up, rode another 15 miles to Athol, and stopped into Country Boy Cafe, remembering the great burgers there from 2012.   When I went to pay, the waitress told me that the couple in the booth behind me had already paid for my meal.  This has never happened to me before.  I asked the guy, older gentleman who walked with a cane, why?   He said that someone did that for him a few weeks ago and he figured he'd just do that for me.   Go figure!

Several downpours later I arrived, wet and mud-spattered to the Cedar Street Hotel, which used to be a La Quinta, and got in the shower with my bike.  About an hour later the bike and I were cleaned up enough and I headed out for dinner at Baxters, followed by an evening of laundry 

and some light reading..  Gotta love Idaho!

6/6 to Trout Creek

Uneventful ride, except that my plan for lunch at the Hereford Bar and Grill was not to be because the Hereford Bar and Grill burned down 2 years ago, and Google Maps still showed it as being open.   I fixed  the Google Maps entry when I got to a place with cell service, and checked into the Lakeside Hotel and Casino, where I had dinner among the deer, elk, bobcat, bear et. al. that were mounted on the walls.

6/7 to Plains 

Good tail winds, scattered showers, and arrival at the Dew Drop Inn around 6:00 due to delayed departure to avoid some morning rain.  The only restaurant in Trout Creek is closed on Mon and Tue, so I had to make due with a muffin from the Sinclair station / grocery across the street until I got to Thompson Falls for lunch at the High Lead Saloon, Smokehouse and Casino.  Arrived in Plains just before the Butcher's Nook (a Mennonite restaurant and bakery) closed, so picked up a Sticky Bun before proceeding to the Dew Drop.

6/8 to Missoula

After a fine breakfast at the Nook, more rain avoidance.  78 miles and 2,000 ft of uphill for the day.  Unfortunately, both Windmill Bakery and the adjacent cherry stand in Ravalli (about halfway to Missoula) were closed.

Drying Out in Western Washington

 6/3

Onward to Wilbur.  Just north of Ephrata is Soap Lake, where I had stayed during my first x-country ride of this century in 2012, on the way to visit Grand Coulee Dam.  A shining example of what we can do when we put our minds to it.   Below is a shining example of what we can do when we lose our minds;

'nuff said

Landscape looks more like desert.  Without irrigation from the Grand Coulee it would all be...  Otherwise uneventful ride with nice tail winds.   Not as hot, but still in the mid-90's

6/4:  To Spokane

Cooler.   Only mid-80's.  Nice tail winds and a familiar ride.   This is the 4th time along this stretch of road for me.  Dinner at Clinkendagger overlooking Spokane Falls was the high point of the day.

I'll have the Scallops

Spokane Falls from my table.

Cherries hot as hell!

Today's ride was long and very hot!  After a quick breakfast (donuts) at Don's grocery (opens at 5:30) ,
I left Leavenworth at 6:30AM to try to minimize the heat.  

Don's parking lot:  Tesla charging hits Leavenworth, big time

The morning's ride was lovely.  Some US2 riding, but mostly the ride was on side roads along the Wenatchee river, which cascades down, sometimes with violent rapids, sometimes slow and easy.  The entire day's ride was lined with fruit trees (apples, pears and cherries).  In the town of Wenatchee, the "Apple Capital of the World", a dedicated bike trail called "  Apple Capital Recreation Loop Trail"  runs about 10 miles along the river.  A smooth,  paved ,dedicated bike path with rest stops about every mile.  

By the time I got to Ephrata it was almost 100°.  By 1PM it was about 93°.   The good news is that on the way to Quincy, there were lots of highway rest stops with bathrooms where I could soak my t-shirt to keep cool.  Quincy also has a nice indoor municipal market with fruit stands, bakeries, coffee etc. Nice stop for a lunch of Ice Cream, cookie, and Yakima cherries. 

Quincy to Ephrata is only 17 miles, but it was all over 95°, and all irrigated orchards.  Clear water ran alongside the farm roads I was on, so there was plenty of opportunity to keep soaking the T-shirt.  

It's easy to win first prize in wet t-shirt contest when you're the only contestant!

They call them "The Cascades" for a reason!

Memorial Day

Started out from Redmond to Skykomish.  About 10 miles after merging onto US 2 in Monroe, I noticed oncoming traffic was crawling.  A quick look at Google Maps showed that the Memorial Day traffic jam would cause the 28 mile trip to Monroe would take 1.5 hr.   Eastbound traffic was light.

unhappy campers returning from their weekend in the mountains

The Skykomish river runs alongside of US 2.  At times, raging rapids.  Reminiscent of Hwy 50 on the way to Echo Summit.  Skykomish is a nice little railroad crossroads.  The Cascadia lodge is an old hotel I stayed at 5 years ago.   Hadn't changed a bit.

June 1   Cascades of water!

First and longest part of the ride was from Skykomish to Stevens Pass, a 3200 ft climb over 17 miles.  

Elevation profile Skykomish to Leavenworth through Stevens Pass

Since US2 runs along a railroad line, the grades are not terribly steep, but it's a long slog up.

All the way up, and much of the way back down, water from snow melt cascades down the sides of the mountains, ending up in the rivers that run along US 2.  

Here's one from the descent about 6 miles below Stevens Pass.:

About 5 miles on either side of the pass, there was snow still on the sides of the road, making the air cool and pleasant.  By the time I arrived in Leavenworth (the faux Bavarian tourist trap town) around 3PM, it was about 93°.

What would a blog post be without a dinner pic?

Stuffed Cabbage with Purple Cabbage, Sauer Kraut and potatoes
They sure like cabbage!